
This was a weekend of goodbyes, including my brother's funeral and less profoundly, the last day of my Southside job.
Chris Rock has said that in every town, there are two malls - the one the white people go to, and the one the white people USED to go to.
In the Des Moines area, there are at least 4 huge malls - each one, frankly, filled with a lot of white people. But Southridge Mall is definitely the oldest and most diverse. It's got eighties-style fixtures, a carousel, and a busy food court, where you can watch kids play and listen to old people talk politics. A lot of random stores moved in after the chain retailers gave up on the location - instead of Gap, BabyGap, and moreGap, you find Suenos Felices (it means Sweet Dreams - filled with frothy quinecera dresses and sexy outfits for going out dancing), the Filipino grocery store, a used book store, Southwest Expressions (tacky cactus-themed items for your home), the Western shop (cowboy boots and hats), Chu's Hairstyling (my personal favorite - Chinese hairstylists actually know how to cut straight, thick hair), the Democratic Party Headquarters (during election season), the glass shop (every conceivable kind of glass animal), and Extreme Nightlife (clothing for work, if your work involves a stage and a pole).
But it's not just my love of kitsch that makes Southridge interesting to me. While this is the part of town that many consider to be dying, the bustling immigrant community and abundance of small businesses make it feel more alive than the engineered "town square" communities of the ultra-posh Jordan Creek area. At my bank, there is a black teller, a hispanic teller, and the hot gay teller with whom I bond over a shared interest in theater. The South side is one of the few places in Des Moines where you can find this kind of diversity - sure, there are pockets of this or that ethnicity living all over town, but in no place do these different groups live and work together as they do on the South side. Good ol' boys work right next to immigrants, with women as their supervisors. There's conflict, to be sure, but their simple, hard-working lives give them a lot in common. Southsiders seem to share both hardship and hope.